[1] After securing the motorcycle to a lift, we disconnected the battery for safety. Harley-Davidson’s official performance product line known as Screamin’ Eagle continues to expand as customer feedback tells the Motor Company what riders want for their street machines. They want more horsepower, more acceleration, and more cubic inches. If you’re riding a 2010-or-earlier Harley-Davidson big twin, it was more than likely sold with the then-standard displacement of 96 cubic inches, or even earlier models with 88 inches. Don’t be sad. It’s easy to convert your 96 inches or less into a 103ci machine when using a Screamin’ Eagle street-legal kit to do so. Having your local dealer perform the swap makes it very convenient as well. You don’t even need to get your hands dirty. [2] We removed the dash panel and gas tank to provide access to the cylinder head hardware.[2] We removed the dash panel and gas tank to provide access to the cylinder head hardware Chris Meyers, ace tool swinger at Black Hills Harley-Davidson in Rapid City, South Dakota, performed this conversion in about three hours. What you’ll see in the following photo sequence is the 96-to-103 upgrade Stage II kit being installed, which included new cam shafts and full complement inner cam bearings, all of which are included in this kit. B [3] The stock inner cam bearing (left) was to be replaced with a full complement component (right), which is stronger than the OE unit for obvious reasons.[3] The stock inner cam bearing (left) was to be replaced with a full complement component [5] Both inner cam bearing were replaced with the full complement components and the cam case inspected for cracks or other damage.[5] Both inner cam bearing were replaced with the full complement components and the cam c [6] Back to the cam support plate. The hydraulic cam chain tensioners were removed for the cam replacement procedure. The cam support plate would be stripped.[6] Back to the cam support plate. The hydraulic cam chain tensioners were removed for the [7] These cams would replace the stock 96-inch cam shafts. The larger 103 displacement requires more air, therefore cam profiles designed to provide better breathing were in order.[7] These cams would replace the stock 96-inch cam shafts. The larger 103 displacement req [8] The new cams were checked in the case for proper/adequate clearance. Plenty of clearance here. Earlier Twin Cam cases sometimes required clearances for higher lift cams to spin without interference.[8] The new cams were checked in the case for proper/adequate clearance. Plenty of clearan [9] The new cams were chained up with the timing marks located properly. [10] The cam support plate was then installed over the two camshafts. The black plastic devices are installed on the camshafts prior to installing the cam plate to prevent damage or scratches to the bearing races. All the cam plate hardware was installed at this time.[10] The cam support plate was then installed over the two camshafts. The black plastic de [11] We installed a new O-ring on the oil pump appendage as shown. [12] We carefully reinstalled the georotor oil pump into position in the cam case. [13] We instaledl the inner cam chain tensioner onto the cam plate. We squirted a copious amount of oil on all the metal surfaces of the cams and plate assembly prior to installation.[13] We instaledl the inner cam chain tensioner onto the cam plate. We squirted a copious [14] We slid the cam plates and new cams into place in the cam case. [15] We installed the cam plate centering tools (red arrows), then installed and tightened the cam plate hardware. The tools hold the cam plate and oil pump in position during the hardware tightening sequence.[15] We installed the cam plate centering tools (red arrows), then installed and tightened [16] We installed the cam drive sprockets and checked them for alignment. Spacers are available from Harley-Davidson to provide adjustment.[16] We installed the cam drive sprockets and checked them for alignment. Spacers are avai [17] The sprockets were perfectly aligned, so the drive chain was installed, and the locking tool positioned to prevent movement while tightening the sprocket hardware. Factory torque specs are called for here.[17] The sprockets were perfectly aligned, so the drive chain was installed, and the locki [18] The outer hydraulic chain tensioner must be installed at this time. [19] On went the cam cover and hardware, which was then tightened to factory specifications.[19] On went the cam cover and hardware, which was then tightened to factory specification [20] Both 103 cylinder bores received a liberal dose of WD-40 (or other lightweight lubricant).[20] Both 103 cylinder bores received a liberal dose of WD-40 (or other lightweight lubric [21] Before the piston rings were installed on the pistons, the ring end-gaps (all rings) were checked using a feeler gauge.[21] Before the piston rings were installed on the pistons, the ring end-gaps (all rings) [22] We installed the rings in their correct ring lands on the piston. There are two compression rings (top two) and an oil ring (bottom).[22] We installed the rings in their correct ring lands on the piston. There are two compr [23] We installed the pistons onto the connecting rods and slid the wrist pin into place. [24] Before installing the wrist pin keepers, we made sure the pistons were oriented correctly. The arrow on the top of the piston should be pointing forward. The STD denotes standard bore for 103 pistons.[24] Before installing the wrist pin keepers, we made sure the pistons were oriented corre 1 | 2 | » | View Full Article By Buck Lovell Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
