Fitting Backbone Frame - Choppin’ It | Chassis Designs Big Wheel Bagger Frames

[18] A Dake press was then used to compress the wedges left over from the cut out material.
[18] A Dake press was then used to compress the wedges left over from the cut out material
[19] Once the backbone was the right width to match up with the neck, a measurement was taken so that the excess could be cut off.
[19] Once the backbone was the right width to match up with the neck, a measurement was ta
[20] A 2�-inch hole saw was then used to cope the backbone so it would fit in against the neck.
[20] A 2�-inch hole saw was then used to cope the backbone so it would fit in against the

[21] Anthony then fit the backbone in place to make sure it fit like he wanted it to before tack welding.
[21] Anthony then fit the backbone in place to make sure it fit like he wanted it to befor
[22] Once satisfied with the backbone, Mike began tack-welding the sleeve into the new backbone. He used some welding rods (arrows) to space out the smaller diameter sleeve in the new backbone.
[22] Once satisfied with the backbone, Mike began tack-welding the sleeve into the new bac
[23] While Mike was using welding magnets to hold the backbone in place, Anthony was working on gusseting the underside of the downtubes and the neck with some steel plate. Gussets will help add structural integrity to the new front section.
[23] While Mike was using welding magnets to hold the backbone in place, Anthony was worki

[24] Here we see Mike tack-welding the sleeve/new backbone to the existing portion of the backbone.
[24] Here we see Mike tack-welding the sleeve/new backbone to the existing portion of the
[25] This is what the frame looked like tacked up with the backbone and downtubes in place.
[25] This is what the frame looked like tacked up with the backbone and downtubes in place
[26] Once again to add structural integrity to the new front section of the frame, the backbone, neck, and downtubes will be gusseted together. A template was made using some light cardboard.
[26] Once again to add structural integrity to the new front section of the frame, the bac

[27] The pattern was then transferred to a piece of 11-gauge steel.
[28] Mike then used the bandsaw to cut out the steel gusset.
[29] He then used a belt sander to clean up the edges and finish off the radius that was cut into the back of the gusset.
[29] He then used a belt sander to clean up the edges and finish off the radius that was c

[30] The gusset was then mocked up in place to make sure it fit properly. The rear radius of the gusset is for aesthetics to help give the frame look more finished and custom look.
[30] The gusset was then mocked up in place to make sure it fit properly. The rear radius
[31] With both the gussets cut out and fitting properly, Anthony and Mike began TIG-welding everything together. This is what the finished frame looked like. The radiused legs really give the frame some style.
[31] With both the gussets cut out and fitting properly, Anthony and Mike began TIG-weldin
[32] Here’s a close up of the gusseted neck. As you can see, the TIG-welding by Chassis Design is top notch.
[32] Here’s a close up of the gusseted neck. As you can see, the TIG-welding by Chassis De

[33] Oh, and to give you an idea of what can be done with one of Chassis Design’s custom H-D frames, here’s a totally custom Road Glide with a 23-inch front wheel. And while you can’t really tell because of the lower covers, this frame features the same radiused downtubes as the frame we just followed.

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Chassis Design
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