Custom Cycle Engineering: TourTrac Tree

01. The TourTrac Tree kit comes with two 23⁄4-inch preload spacers, longer fork tubes, two fork cap bolts, and top tree. The orange TourTrac Tree is for illustrative and photo purposes only; the top tree comes from CCE black anodized. Other than the parts shown here all stock components are reused.

01. The TourTrac Tree kit comes with two 23⁄4-inch preload spacers, longer fork tubes, tw

Custom Cycle Engineering (CCE) has been making motorcycle parts since 1967. In addition to the many innovative and stylish parts made over the decades CCE manufactures (in house) all kinds of suspension improvement products ranging from fork tubes in countless lengths and diameters, triple trees, fender braces, and swingarm upgrades to name a few.

CCE is continuing to help bagger owners and their quest for better handling with its TourTrac Tree kit. The new billet aluminum top plate was designed to replace the stock steel forged top tree that the Factory has utilized since 1950. The new top tree is a pinch bolt style and offers over 2¼ inches of clamping stability to the front forks. The pinch bolt design dramatically improves fork rigidity leading to better handling, tracking and stability. Because the fork tube is now engaged fully into the top triple tree, custom length fork tubes are supplied to maintain stock ride height.

02. On top is the stock, cast-steel, top triple tree (upper fork bracket in H-D speak). Look at how much beefier (but actually lighter in weight) CCE’s billet aluminum TourTrac Tree is by comparison. Notice the increased clamping area where the fork tubes go.
02. On top is the stock, cast-steel, top triple tree (upper fork bracket in H-D speak). L
03. After disconnecting the negative battery terminal we removed the nacelle, headlight, ignition switch, and unplugged electrical connectors.
03. After disconnecting the negative battery terminal we removed the nacelle, headlight,
04. At the top of the stock fork tube the fork tube plug butts against the top triple tree. In stock form the fork cap bolt (arrow) on top of the triple tree secures each tube/fork assembly to the tree.
04. At the top of the stock fork tube the fork tube plug butts against the top triple tre

The CCE manufactured fork tubes come in two varieties. Show chrome is the bright chrome we all love with its mirror like qualities. Hard chrome is not as bright, just like the stock fork tubes that come from the factory, but hard for hydraulics. The TourTrac Tree kit with top tree, p reload spacers, and fork cap bolts with show chrome tubes is $775 and the hard chrome is $845. Kits are available for ’84-later H-D baggers utilizing 41mm fork tubes.

05. The wheel and front fender were removed. Before proceeding we loosened the bolt securing the damper tube. The damper tube is under spring pressure and if you relieve the spring tension before loosening the bolt it’s very difficult to loosen, as the internal assembly will spin as you turn the Allen bolt. Due to corrosion and dirt, sometimes an impact wrench is the only way to break these bolts free.

05. The wheel and front fender were removed. Before proceeding we loosened the bolt secur

We rolled down to the San Diego area where Rick Whitehead, owner and janitor, of CCE took us through the install on a ’04 Road King Classic.

Conclusion:

We asked the bike’s owner Shawn Farrell what difference he felt after installing the TourTrac Tree. Here’s what he had to offer.

“WOW! WOW! What a difference. My Road King was a totally different bike after installing the TourTrac Tree. I ran over 100 mph and the bike felt like it was on rails. The ride was steady and certain and it was like he (the RK) asked for more, saying “I can handle it.” Shawn continued, “Before at speeds above about 80 mph I would always think to myself that maybe I should shut down the throttle due to vague frontend feedback. Now however, although I can feel the road, the road doesn’t control me. I take corners with confidence knowing that the bike will stay in my control and on point.” B

06. Then each of the top fork cap bolts was removed.
07. After loosening the bottom tree pinch bolt (red arrow) the fork tube assembly was slid down through the triple trees. The fork tube plug (yellow arrow) sits inside the top triple tree; there’s not a lot of clamping surface area there.
07. After loosening the bottom tree pinch bolt (red arrow) the fork tube assembly was sli
08. The fork tube plugs were removed. Be very careful removing this bolt; it’s under spring tension and can easily cause personal injury or damage to nearby items. One trick is to put a heavy towel over the bolt keeping steady downward pressure on the bolt as you loosen it so when it pops it can’t lodge itself in your ceiling, or worse. This is no joke, be careful.
08. The fork tube plugs were removed. Be very careful removing this bolt; it’s under spri

09. For each fork leg we pulled out the fork spring, and removed the oil seal retaining ring (shown), followed up by…
09. For each fork leg we pulled out the fork spring, and removed the oil seal retaining r
10. …removing the previously loosened damper bolt and the drain screw. The fork oil was drained into a bucket to be properly discarded.
10. …removing the previously loosened damper bolt and the drain screw. The fork oil was d
11. At this point the fork slider was separated from the fork tube.

13. All of the internal components were cleaned while each of the bushings and fork parts was visually inspected for wear. Other than the oil seals and fork tubes (and the 2 top bolts used by each stock tube) the stock parts would be reused.
13. All of the internal components were cleaned while each of the bushings and fork parts
14. The new CCE fork tubes (top) are 23/4 inches longer than stock. We previously slid new bushings (arrows) over the end of each tube.
14. The new CCE fork tubes (top) are 23/4 inches longer than stock. We previously slid ne
15. Reassembly was straightforward and the same as the factory assembly. Here, from left, is the fork tube (with bushing), damper rod, oil lock stop, and slider. Tip: apply grease to the inside of the oil lock stop. This keeps the damper rod seated properly and straight as the assembly is lowered into the slider.
15. Reassembly was straightforward and the same as the factory assembly. Here, from left,

16. We lubricated each oil seal with fresh 15-weight PJ1 fork oil.
17. Using a seal driver, a new oil seal was bottomed out in the top of each slider followed by popping in the retaining ring.
17. Using a seal driver, a new oil seal was bottomed out in the top of each slider follow
18. The drain screw was tightened with an impact screwdriver and the damper rod bolt was installed as tight as possible to avoid leaks; final torquing of the damper bolt will be done after the fork cap is in place. Remember that spring tension?
18. The drain screw was tightened with an impact screwdriver and the damper rod bolt was

19. Harley recommends adding fork oil with the forks fully compressed and without fork springs or spacers. Although the volume of oil is important, since we added extra length to the fork tubes the stock value changed. A more accurate way of determining the amount of fork oil is to measure the distance from the top of the tube to the fork oil level. To use the fork oil tool, we filled the forks, set the distance (4.2 inches for a ’04 RK) from the top on the fork tube, and removed (through suction) the excess fork oil. When all you get is air in the tool, you have the proper level of fork oil.
19. Harley recommends adding fork oil with the forks fully compressed and without fork sp
20. Once both forks were filled correctly, the springs and spacers were placed into the fork assembly. The common notion is to place the springs with the tighter windings at the bottom; presumably to reduce unsprung weight as the lighter (less windings per inch) part of the spring is on top. The new fork cap bolt was then muscled into place.
20. Once both forks were filled correctly, the springs and spacers were placed into the f
21. We installed the stock rubber bushings and spacers into the TourTrac Tree.
21. We installed the stock rubber bushings and spacers into the TourTrac Tree.

22. The TourTrac Tree was secured to the stock fork stem with the stock nut and locking plate but not tightened yet.
22. The TourTrac Tree was secured to the stock fork stem with the stock nut and locking p
23. Each complete fork assembly was slid through the bottom triple tree. The rubber damper goes between the triple trees.
23. Each complete fork assembly was slid through the bottom triple tree. The rubber dampe
24. Once the fork cap nut was in the proper position the pinch bolt was tightened.
24. Once the fork cap nut was in the proper position the pinch bolt was tightened.

25. The ignition switch, risers, and handlebars came next.
26. The fork stem nut was tightened, and then the lower pinch bolts. It’s vital that the endplay of the triple trees/neck stem are adjusted properly to ensure good handling.
26. The fork stem nut was tightened, and then the lower pinch bolts. It’s vital that the
27. We reinstalled the stock Road King headlight and nacelle.

28. Finishing the installation we replaced the fender…
29. …followed up with the front wheel and brake calipers before getting the King out on the road.
29. …followed up with the front wheel and brake calipers before getting the King out on t