Overall rating:Like a lot of motorcycle riders, we want the best of both worlds-looks and performance. When the need arises to replace some worn out "perishable" parts, our case being brake pads, we decided to change up to floating brake rotors, as well. We selected the chrome floating rotors from H-D's P&A catalog, along with a new rear tire. We had accumulated 16,599 miles over the past year. The brake pads were getting close to being gone, and the rear tire was toast. Actually, we were pretty proud of ourselves for wearing out a tire from riding and not smoking. While we had the bike up, we went with some chrome rotor hardware and front wheel spacers. We're finally getting the hang of preplanning what we want to do and getting all of the parts ahead of time. We ran into one small problem: removing the front wheel. When we added the chrome front fender rail, we replaced the stock front fender bolts with longer ones included in the kit. When we went to drop the front wheel to change out the rotor, the tire got hung up on the fender mounting bolts. We removed the nuts from one side of the fender and backed the bolts out a little. Then the wheel came out easily. We also took the time to thoroughly clean the wheel assemblies while we had them off the bike and while the rotors were out of the way. Spokes are hard to keep clean anyway. We're not going to spend much time on changing out the disc brake rotors in this story. However, we devoted a couple of pages elsewhere in this issue on how to remove disc brake bolts the easy, no-fuss way. When working on your bike, it's a smart idea to have the correct service manual at hand for reference, rather than guess. RATING GUIDE ABILITY TIME TOOLS COST SEE LEGEND IN BACKPRESSURE Here is the '06 Heritage Softail we use as a commuter bike during the week. It's like our station wagon, hauling some camera gear and parts back and forth from the office and workshop. We removed the tour pack and saddlebags, so we could get it up on the lift table.Here is the '06 Heritage Softail we use as a commuter bike during the week. It's like our We decided to attack the front wheel first. To remove the front wheel, we used our jack stand to get the front wheel in the air. Remember to put the bike in gear and let it roll backwards against compression before lifting with the stand.We decided to attack the front wheel first. To remove the front wheel, we used our jack st We first removed the axle caps from both sides of the axle. Next to come off was the push-on bolt caps on the caliper mounting bolts. The caliper mounting bolts were next. There are two different length bolts: long bolt (top), short bolt (bottom).The caliper mounting bolts were next. There are two different length bolts: long bolt (top We carefully slid the caliper back off of the disc rotor. Try not to scratch the paint on the fender.We carefully slid the caliper back off of the disc rotor. Try not to scratch the paint on Wrap a shop towel around the caliper, and using a bungee cord, hang the caliper from the handlebars or someplace on the frontend, where the front brake hose will not be stressed and the caliper doesn't touch the paint.Wrap a shop towel around the caliper, and using a bungee cord, hang the caliper from the h Next to come off was the front axle. We first removed the nut, lock washer, and flat washer. We then moved to the other side of the bike and loosened the two nuts fastening the clamp to the lower leg, allowing the axle to be removed.Next to come off was the front axle. We first removed the nut, lock washer, and flat washe Depending on how long the wheel is going to be off the bike or your personal lack of memory (our problem), you may want to mark the wheel spacers as to what side they go on-L is for the left side, R is for the right.Depending on how long the wheel is going to be off the bike or your personal lack of memor As we mentioned in the opening text, we had to loosen the left-side fender mounting bolts (arrows) to remove the front wheel and tire.As we mentioned in the opening text, we had to loosen the left-side fender mounting bolts The new floating rotors look identical, front and rear. The difference is the mounting bolt-hole size. The front rotors are held in place with 5/16-inch bolts, where the rear rotor uses 3/8-inch bolts.The new floating rotors look identical, front and rear. The difference is the mounting bol A test fit of the rotor to the wheel will insure the right rotor on the wheel. The '00 and later H-D wheels have a larger index that centers the rotor on the wheel. Late-model rotors will fit sloppy on earlier, '99 and older, wheels. But early rotors will not fit '00 and later wheels.A test fit of the rotor to the wheel will insure the right rotor on the wheel. The '00 and We had a bright thought while we were putting parts together for this article and bought chrome brake rotor mounting hardware. The rotor itself comes with new cadmium-plated hardware as part of the kit, but it would detract from the wheel, in our opinion. The chrome hardware needs to have a drop or two of blue Loctite applied.We had a bright thought while we were putting parts together for this article and bought c The chrome disc brake rotor hardware was torqued to the same factory specifications of 16-24 lb-ft.The chrome disc brake rotor hardware was torqued to the same factory specifications of 16- Another item we purchased while we had our thinking cap on was chrome front wheel spacers. We double-checked the spacer length against the stock ones just to be sure.Another item we purchased while we had our thinking cap on was chrome front wheel spacers. Here we are with the front wheel ready to go back on the bike. We wanted to get the tire past the front fender bolts before sliding the axle in place.Here we are with the front wheel ready to go back on the bike. We wanted to get the tire p We coated the front axle with a very light coat of neverseize. We placed it through the right slider, then balanced the right wheel spacer on the end of the axle.We coated the front axle with a very light coat of neverseize. We placed it through the ri After holding the left-side spacer in place, the axle will need to be tapped lightly into the spacer. You will have to raise the wheel slightly to align the axle with the left-side lower leg. You then can finish pushing the axle into place.After holding the left-side spacer in place, the axle will need to be tapped lightly into The front axle was torqued to 60-65 lb-ft. After torquing, we then spun the wheel to insure it turned freely.The front axle was torqued to 60-65 lb-ft. After torquing, we then spun the wheel to insur It doesn't happen often, but sometimes you will not get the axle nut to torque. This mainly happens if the axle is spinning. If this occurs, slip a drift into the hole on the right side to hold the axle while it's being torqued.It doesn't happen often, but sometimes you will not get the axle nut to torque. This mainl After the axle is torqued, the two nuts that hold the axle cap on the right fork slider need to be torqued to 11-15 lb-ft.After the axle is torqued, the two nuts that hold the axle cap on the right fork slider ne With the front wheel back in place, we turned our attention to the front brake caliper. We placed the caliper on the fork slider and slid the mounting bolts in place. But we didn't tighten them yet. We first wanted to loosen the brake pad pin bolts (arrows).With the front wheel back in place, we turned our attention to the front brake caliper. We With the caliper in our hand, we removed the brake pin bolts and the original brake pads. It's a good idea to compare the old pads to the new pads. You want to be sure you have the right parts. You will also want to check the orientation of the pads for correct reassembly.It's a good idea to compare the old pads to the new pads. You want to be sure you have the Here are the brake pad pin bolts. Notice the slight taper (arrows) on one end that allows the bolts to pass through the mounting holes in the pads. This is especially helpful when replacing the pads without removing the caliper from the frontend.Here are the brake pad pin bolts. Notice the slight taper (arrows) on one end that allows We assembled the new brake pads into the caliper after compressing the caliper pistons back flush with the inside of the caliper. We held the pads in position, then slid the pin bolts into the caliper, and finally insured they passed through both brake pads.We assembled the new brake pads into the caliper after compressing the caliper pistons bac We slid the caliper carefully over the disc rotor and aligned the caliper with the mounting bosses on the slider. We then installed the caliper mounting bolts and torqued them to 28-38 lb-ft. The brake pad pin bolts will be torqued to 180-200 lb/in.We slid the caliper carefully over the disc rotor and aligned the caliper with the mountin With the front wheel still raised off of the ground, you will need to gently pump the front brake lever until you feel pressure. Remember that you pushed the caliper pistons back into their bores to fit the new pads. Now, you are pushing the pistons back out, so the pads are closer to the disc.With the front wheel still raised off of the ground, you will need to gently pump the fron Everything looked good up to this point. We replaced the axle caps, then spun the wheel and squeezed the brake lever. We checked the brake fluid level and wiped our fingerprints off of the shiny stuff. Now, we are done.Everything looked good up to this point. We replaced the axle caps, then spun the wheel an We have now moved the Heritage to our indoor lift table to work on the rear wheel. This is a perfect example of a freeway tire. There is plenty of tread on either side, but nothing down the middle.We have now moved the Heritage to our indoor lift table to work on the rear wheel. This is With the bike on the lift table, we first went about removing the rear exhaust pipe. In York, Pennsylvania, where Softails are assembled, they install the rear axles from the right side of the bike. This way, if the axle ever comes loose while you are riding, it will never leave the bike. With our scissors jack under the rear frame cross member, we elevated the rear wheel clear of the table's surface.With the bike on the lift table, we first went about removing the rear exhaust pipe. In Yo After removing the rear axle nut, washer, and adjustment spacer, we slid the axle out of the swingarm and wheel. We then removed the upper belt guard and most of the hardware that fastened the lower belt guard. We now could lower the rear wheel enough to roll it slightly forward, so we could slip the rear drive belt off the rear pulley and clear the brake rotor from the rear caliper.After removing the rear axle nut, washer, and adjustment spacer, we slid the axle out of t We cranked up the jack high enough, so we could slide the rear wheel out the side of the swingarm. We first carefully pulled the bottom of the wheel towards us, while guiding the top of the wheel away from the fender.We cranked up the jack high enough, so we could slide the rear wheel out the side of the s With a couple of shop towels for protection, we laid the rear pulley side down on the table and removed the stock rear rotor.With a couple of shop towels for protection, we laid the rear pulley side down on the tabl Following the same methods for installing the front floating rotor, we mounted the new rear rotor again using new chrome mounting bolts. That is after we went to our local tire shop, MC Tire Works, and had them mount the Dunlop rear tire. Those guys made it look so easy.Following the same methods for installing the front floating rotor, we mounted the new rea Installing the brilliantly polished rear wheel with the new floating rotor is a reverse of removing it, with the exception being that we installed our axle from the left side of the bike so we would not have to remove the exhaust again. The rear axle torque spec is the same as the front axle: 60-65 lb-ft.Installing the brilliantly polished rear wheel with the new floating rotor is a reverse of However, we did replace the rear brake pads with the wheel in place, but the exhaust pipe was still on the table. We installed the new pads, as described in the service manual, by first pushing the pistons back into the caliper using a stiff-bladed putty knife between the rotor and pad. We then pulled the pin bolts out partway and replaced the inner pad. We slid the pin bolts back in place and pumped the rear brake pedal, which pushed the inner pad back against the rotor. Using the putty knife, we pushed the outer pistons back into the bore. We then removed the pin bolts and slid the outer pad out of the caliper. We finally replaced it with the new pad, installed the pin bolts, and torqued them to 180-200 lb/in.However, we did replace the rear brake pads with the wheel in place, but the exhaust pipe You will need to pump the rear brake pedal until you have good, solid pressure. You will then need to reinstall the rear exhaust pipe. After washing the Heritage, we reinstalled the bags and tour pack and were ready for the LA freeways once more. Try to avoid hard stops for the first 100 miles to allow the new pads to wear into the new rotors.You will need to pump the rear brake pedal until you have good, solid pressure. You will t Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
