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Harley Davidson Motorcycle Saddlebags and Passenger Motorcycle Floorboards

Read The Fine Print

Photography by Frank Kaisler

We have not yet learned to read the fine print, even though it makes a huge difference when ordering parts. For example, we wanted to continue "buffing" up our Softail Heritage at the rear with the passenger footboard kit and the rear fender rail kit. We then went and procured one of each. Back at the workshop, we secured the bike on our lift table, and then opened both kits. After reading the instructions, we found out in order to mount the passenger footboards, we needed a saddlebag relocation kit (damn). We went back to the dealer for the saddlebag relocation kit, which they had in stock, and then back to the shop. We read the instructions again to double-check we had exactly what we needed. We then started installing the kits (finally). A couple of hours later, we were finished and pleased with the results. The fender rail kit looks good and matches the front fender rail kit, while the passenger footboards were in just the right place for the passenger. The entire operation to install both kits along with the saddlebag mounts took a little over three hours of a Saturday afternoon.

  • Here are the parts we are going to install: the passenger footboard kit (A), saddlebag relocation kit (B), and the rear fender rail kit (C).
    Here are the parts we are going to install: the passenger footboard kit (A), saddlebag rel
  • We first removed the saddlebag from each side of the bike. There are two mounting bolts inside the bag (arrows) and one bolt on the front bag mount.
    We first removed the saddlebag from each side of the bike. There are two mounting bolts in
  • After removing the saddlebags and rereading the instructions for all the parts, we decided we would work on the rear fender rail first.
    After removing the saddlebags and rereading the instructions for all the parts, we decided
  • The rear fender rail will use the rear most bolthole in the fender strut. After removing the chrome plug that filled the hole, we held up the spacer that would have to be used between the fender rail and the fender.
    The rear fender rail will use the rear most bolthole in the fender strut. After removing t
  • To mount the rear fender rail, we have to drill out the fender in relation to the fender rail. We selected a drill that was a slip-fit in the fender rail hole and carefully drilled a starter hole.
    To mount the rear fender rail, we have to drill out the fender in relation to the fender r
  • Here, you can see the mark our first drill left on the fender (arrow) through the fender rail.
    Here, you can see the mark our first drill left on the fender (arrow) through the fender r
  • We then removed the fender rail to expose the fender so we could finish drilling the new mounting hole. The '06 Heritage uses nut strips instead of individual nuts and washers on the inside of the fender, which makes hardware removal a lot easier.
    We then removed the fender rail to expose the fender so we could finish drilling the new m
  • Using an 11/32-inch drill bit, we carefully drilled a hole the rest of the way through the fender. Note: Do not drill into the sidewall of your tire; deburr the freshly drilled hole with a countersink.
    Using an 11/32-inch drill bit, we carefully drilled a hole the rest of the way through the
  • Reassemble the fender strut using the hardware you removed in the same location, but don't tighten the bolts yet. Allow enough room to slip the spacer (arrow) from the kit between the fender strut and the fender. We used the new mounting bolt to hold the spacer in place.
    Reassemble the fender strut using the hardware you removed in the same location, but don't
  • The lower mounting point for the rear fender rail is behind the fender tip light. The fender tip light is held on by two screws that are accessible behind the lens.
    The lower mounting point for the rear fender rail is behind the fender tip light. The fend
  • The footboard mounts are left and right. The difference is the curve (arrow) of the mount where it fits around the swingarm pivot bolt head, and on the other side, the pivot shaft nut. The smaller radius is for the left side (nut), which means the large radius is for the right side (bolt).
    The footboard mounts are left and right. The difference is the curve (arrow) of the mount
  • The fender struts and rail are on its time to move south to the passenger footpeg and saddlebag mount, which is removed to make way for the passenger footboard mount.
    The fender struts and rail are on its time to move south to the passenger footpeg and sadd
  • The footboard mount bolts to the frame using the included Allen bolt. The new saddlebag relocation bracket (arrow) mounts on the backside of the frame and the saddlebag lower mounting point bolts to the relocation bracket. We put all these pieces together loosely. After everything was lined up, we started at the footboard mount and worked our way back, tightening up all the fasteners to the factory torque specs. The footboard mounting bolts get torqued to 45-50 lb-ft.
    The footboard mount bolts to the frame using the included Allen bolt. The new saddlebag re
  • The footboard mount itself fits over the hex stock of the mounting bracket and is fastened with a 1/4-20-inch pinch bolt.
    The footboard mount itself fits over the hex stock of the mounting bracket and is fastened
  • The footboard uses a spring-loaded ball (A). When the board is assembled, it will index into the indents of the board's surface (B and C), which will keep the board from flopping around.
    The footboard uses a spring-loaded ball (A). When the board is assembled, it will index in
  • The boards will pivot up and down as the need arises. They do so on pivot pins (arrow) that fit through the board and into the mounting bracket.
    The boards will pivot up and down as the need arises. They do so on pivot pins (arrow) tha
  • Here is the tricky part. You have to hold the footboard in place on the bracket, push down on the ball, and spring and slide the pivot pins into the board-mounting bracket.
    Here is the tricky part. You have to hold the footboard in place on the bracket, push down
  • And, there you have it. Here are passenger footboards that provide comfort on the long hauls where you want to move your foot around to change positions, as well as the rear fender rail for some added bling.
    And, there you have it. Here are passenger footboards that provide comfort on the long hau
  • After the pins were in and centered, we pushed the rubber mats into the recesses of the board. The rubber knobs (arrows) hold the pivot pins in place and keep them from drifting out. A mixture of dish soap and water will ease the rubber knobs being pushed into the footboard.
    After the pins were in and centered, we pushed the rubber mats into the recesses of the bo
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