2006 Harley Davidson Sportster Saddlebags

Since my "Maiden Voyage" on a '06 Sportster XL 1200L featured in our June issue, page 34, I've been wanting to spice up this hot little commodity. In fact, I've grown quite fond of the test bike, affectionately named "Hawk," that I'm almost reluctant to give it back to Harley-Davidson. Here's the problem with that: The company knows where to find the Sportster (and me for that matter). I decided it was best to wisely use the time Hawk and I have left together by adding some accessories to get the bike better suited to my riding needs.

As a beginning rider, I've been spending as much time as possible in the saddle the past two months, further developing my skills and confidence. Now I'm ready for the big leagues and want to ride greater and longer distances-perhaps even taking a male passenger on the back one day. Whether it's riding to work or traveling across the country, I needed saddlebags first and foremost to haul the things I just can't go without. Now folks, as you may know, most women don't travel lightly. I'm not embarrassed to admit that I'm one of them. I pack for a trip like my closet's not going to be there after I return home. However, it shouldn't be frowned upon that I pack essentials like makeup and hair spray (helmet-hair days), because I also take tools, service manual, and stay-out-of-jail card.

When it came time for choosing a style of saddlebags, I turned to the P&A catalog and selected the Sportster Leather Saddlebags, which require the Turn Signal Relocation Kit. I picked these bags because they're lockable, they're large enough to carry my belongings without looking bulky, and they're cool looking, with an angular design that sweeps back with the Sporty's lines. Besides the saddlebags and turn signal kit, I chose the Detachable Docking Hardware Kit for ease of future installation of other accessories, like a sissy bar (for the male passenger), a luggage rack (ideal for me), and whatever else for my newfound addiction. I have to give myself a gold star for thinking ahead and realizing the convenience of installing the docking hardware kit now. I knew other accessories would be installed soon, so why not get the hardware now and go easy on myself.

Three boxes arrived soon thereafter at the HRBW headquarters, and I couldn't be more excited about one thing: installing everything myself, with some guidance and patience from the editor of this magazine. So folks, grab a cold one and follow along as I performed (with little injury) my first installation of a Harley-Davidson accessory: saddlebags. It's time to kiss the fingernails good-bye and get my hands dirty.

After pushing the bike onto the Western Manufacturing lift, I tied it down with safety straps for added security.
After pushing the bike onto the Western Manufacturing lift, I tied it down with safety str
To prevent accidental start-up, I needed to disconnect power from the battery. The seat would have to come off first. I removed the screw behind the seat to detach it from the rear fender.
To prevent accidental start-up, I needed to disconnect power from the battery. The seat wo
I pushed the seat forward to release the keyhole from post on the frame, then lifted up on the seat to release it completely from the frame.
I pushed the seat forward to release the keyhole from post on the frame, then lifted up on

Next, I needed to remove the left side cover to get to the battery. After gently pushing down on the cover's top to release it from the latches, I then simply lifted it off, as shown here.
Next, I needed to remove the left side cover to get to the battery. After gently pushing d
The instructions call for disconnecting the negative battery cable (black). Since it was easier to get to the positive terminal, I unthreaded the bolt and removed the positive battery cable (red) instead. A shop cloth will be stuffed there to keep the cable from gravitating back to its position.
The instructions call for disconnecting the negative battery cable (black). Since it was e
Now it was time to remove and disassemble the turn signals. The instructions call for completing the following procedures on one side of the bike before starting the other side. I started by removing the screw from each side of the taillamp lens.
Now it was time to remove and disassemble the turn signals. The instructions call for comp

Using a terminal pick, I depressed the locking tab on top of each turn signal connector to release the connectors from the taillamp base.
Using a terminal pick, I depressed the locking tab on top of each turn signal connector to
After depressing the locking tab on bottom of taillamp connector, I pulled out the taillamp and set aside. Now here was the fun part: pulling the turn signal wires out of the clip, as shown here. A tip: Patience is a virtue. Refer to the service manual for a connector diagram. One more thing: The instructions call for cutting the wires at this point to fit through the new turn signal bar. This will be done in a later step when the wires are out in front of me and easier to cut.
After depressing the locking tab on bottom of taillamp connector, I pulled out the taillam
To remove the rear turn signal, I began by carefully prying the lens from the housing.

After taking out the bulb, I also carefully pried the reflector, as shown here, and the grommet from the housing. I will then pull the wires out from the unthreaded housing hole, but leave the housing, support, and support stud in place for right now.
After taking out the bulb, I also carefully pried the reflector, as shown here, and the gr
Next to come off was the fender support cover. I removed the front, then the rear button head screw, the two locknuts, and the under fender clip nuts from the right support cover. At last, I removed the right fender support cover.
Next to come off was the fender support cover. I removed the front, then the rear button h

Here is the point, as mentioned in caption 11, when I removed the support (arrow) from the turn signal housing.
Here is the point, as mentioned in caption 11, when I removed the support (arrow) from the
Next, I took off the existing license plate bracket by removing the screws on the bracket. The instructions call for then removing the screws under the bracket attached underneath the fender. Don't forget to retain the hardware for the license plate bracket kit installation.
Next, I took off the existing license plate bracket by removing the screws on the bracket.
I had reached the point to start assembling the Turn Signal Relocation Kit. The jam nut (arrow) was installed first onto each end of the turn signal bar.
I had reached the point to start assembling the Turn Signal Relocation Kit. The jam nut (a

Next, I cut both the black and violet wires 4 to 6 inches from the turn signal connector. It was easier at this point to cut the wires while I had them in front of me, than cutting them while they were under the fender (as described in caption 9).
Next, I cut both the black and violet wires 4 to 6 inches from the turn signal connector.
After pulling the black plastic wire sheathing off completely, I routed the wires in the following sequence: through the recess cover plate (A); through the new 5/16 lockwasher; through the jam nut (B); into the turn signal bar end; out the hole a few inches from the end of the bar. Here is how the new turn signal bar looked up to this point. I will then screw the turn signal housing onto the threaded stud end, pop in the bulb, and leave the housing loosely fastened to the bar.
After pulling the black plastic wire sheathing off completely, I routed the wires in the f
Moving on to installing the relocation bar and license plate bracket, I placed the new pad from kit onto fender, and aligned the three holes with the three holes in the fender. I marked the location on the pad (arrow) that aligned with the fourth hole in the fender.
Moving on to installing the relocation bar and license plate bracket, I placed the new pad

I cut an X pattern over the mark carefully avoiding any further injuries (arrow) and bandages. Now I know what it means to put blood, sweat, and tears into something.
I cut an X pattern over the mark carefully avoiding any further injuries (arrow) and banda
After cutting approximately 5 inches of sleeve material (arrow) provided with the kit, I then pulled the left turn signal wires through it. Next, I pulled the wires through hole in new license plate bracket and fourth hole in the bracket pad, as shown here.
After cutting approximately 5 inches of sleeve material (arrow) provided with the kit, I t
Here is how the new turn signal bar looked up to this point.

I got a kick out of the next step in this install: splicing turn signal wires to connector wires. I stripped about 3/8 inches insulation with a crimping tool from the cut ends of the turn signal wires, as shown here, and the 4-6-inch wire ends with connectors cut from the turn signal wires (as described in caption 16).
I got a kick out of the next step in this install: splicing turn signal wires to connector
I found the crimp cavity (22-18 gauge) of the crimping tool to match the sealed connector. After crimping the end of the violet wire into the end of one connector...
I found the crimp cavity (22-18 gauge) of the crimping tool to match the sealed connector.
...I Then crimped the other end of the violet wire into end of same connector. I'll be repeating this action for the remaining three wire sets, stopping at each completion to heat shrink the connector with a good ol' lighter, as shown here.
...I Then crimped the other end of the violet wire into end of same connector. I'll be rep

I found the crimp cavity (22-18 gauge) of the crimping tool to match the sealed connector. After crimping the end of the violet wire into the end of one connector...
I found the crimp cavity (22-18 gauge) of the crimping tool to match the sealed connector.
Here is where I had run into a problem. When I was trying to install the turn signal bar assembly, the fourth hole in the fender wasn't large enough to accommodate the bulky, non-shrink sleeve material (top photo) provided with the kit. When I tried to pull the assembly out (bottom photo), the sleeve material kept getting caught. It was on to Plan B...
Here is where I had run into a problem. When I was trying to install the turn signal bar a
As I was trying to figure out what Plan B was, the editor beat me to it by introducing one of the best things on this planet next to lipstick: heat-shrink tubing (both found at a store near you). After cutting four small pieces of tubing for each turn signal wire set (total of eight pieces), I fed the wires and connector through the sections of tubing, as shown here. It was easier to feed everything through a shorter section, than trying to pull it through a long piece-the connector easily gets caught.
As I was trying to figure out what Plan B was, the editor beat me to it by introducing one

After I fed the turn signal wires through one section of heat-shrink tubing, I brought the turn signal assembly over to a heat gun; another one of the best things on this planet next to eye shadow. I then rotated and passed each section of tubing back and forth through the heat gun attachment until the sealant came out of both ends of tubing.
After I fed the turn signal wires through one section of heat-shrink tubing, I brought the
As shown here, the turn signal assembly looks cleaner, and the heat-shrunk wires now fit nicely through the new license plate bracket and hole in the old pad. I forgot to mention that the former sleeve material/combo deal tore the corner of the pad, but superglue fixed that problem.
As shown here, the turn signal assembly looks cleaner, and the heat-shrunk wires now fit n
Next, the wires were pulled through the fourth hole in the fender and the turn signal assembly was fastened to the fender with hardware included in the kit.
Next, the wires were pulled through the fourth hole in the fender and the turn signal asse

Here is a look under the rear fender. Note the three screws (A) were fastened to the turn signal assembly and the wire cables (B) look clean and tidy. At this point, I will also put the screws back on the fender bar, as well as pull each wire cable through a harness clip provided with kit to hold them in place under the fender. The cables were also secured to the fender bar with a tie wrap.
Here is a look under the rear fender. Note the three screws (A) were fastened to the turn
To route and connect the turn signal wires, I first routed the wires through opening in fender and taillamp base. After referring to the service manual, I inserted the black wire into slot 2 in the connector, as shown here. I will then insert the violet wire into slot 1 and repeat for opposite side. Refer to the service manual for a connector diagram.
To route and connect the turn signal wires, I first routed the wires through opening in fe
After applying a small glob of Dielectric Tune-Up Grease on turn signal connector end...

...It was inserted in the connector opening with the tab up and pushed in until the latch made a clicking sound. I will then repeat for the opposite side.
...It was inserted in the connector opening with the tab up and pushed in until the latch
After applying a bigger glob of Dielectric Tune-Up Grease on the taillamp connector, it was inserted in the connector opening (arrow). These wiring connectors only assemble one way so don't force them.
After applying a bigger glob of Dielectric Tune-Up Grease on the taillamp connector, it wa
The taillamp was then assembled back on the taillamp base. As shown here, you can also see that the turn signals haven't been tightened to the bar. It was decided to do all the final tightening at the end of the install.
The taillamp was then assembled back on the taillamp base. As shown here, you can also see

For the Detachable Docking Hardware Kit, the instructions call for completing the following procedures on one side of the bike before starting the other side. At the start, the length of the hex head screw (arrow) used to hold the docking hardware for the saddlebags wouldn't clear the space between our bike's tire and fender.
For the Detachable Docking Hardware Kit, the instructions call for completing the followin
The Western scissor jack was raised, as shown here, to allow some space between the fender and the wheel. I will soon find out there still wasn't enough space to clear the hex head screw after doing this.
The Western scissor jack was raised, as shown here, to allow some space between the fender
I had to remove the top shock mounting bolt to disconnect the shock from the frame. This will allow the fender to be raised far enough off the wheel to clear the hex head screw.
I had to remove the top shock mounting bolt to disconnect the shock from the frame. This w

Here is most of the saddlebag docking hardware, including the short and long bushings (arrows), with the exception of some of the same parts not pictured that were already over by the bike. The instructions call for obtaining a front docking point (A), hex head screw (B), spacer (C), and locknut from this kit. Also note the small-diameter collar (D) on one end of the docking point.
Here is most of the saddlebag docking hardware, including the short and long bushings (arr
From underneath the fender, I inserted the hex head screw through the forward hole in the fender, and through the fender support, as shown here. The instructions then call for placing the forward docking point (narrow) onto the bolt, with the collar end first. Next, place the spacer onto the bolt. Then place the short saddlebag bushing onto the bolt, with the short end facing outward.
From underneath the fender, I inserted the hex head screw through the forward hole in the
After obtaining a rear docking point (wide), hex head screw, and locknut from the kit, I made a note of the small-diameter collar on one end of the docking point. Again, from underneath the fender, I inserted the screw through the rearmost hole this time in the fender, and finally through the fender support. As shown here, I placed the docking point onto the screw threads, with the collar end first (arrow). This will be followed by placing the long saddlebag bushing onto the bolt, with the short end facing outward.
After obtaining a rear docking point (wide), hex head screw, and locknut from the kit, I m

Once all of the detachable hardware spacers and the fender support cover were in place, I lowered the scissor jack, lined up the shock, inserted the mounting bolt with fresh Loctite, and torqued it to 50 lb-ft.
Once all of the detachable hardware spacers and the fender support cover were in place, I
We have arrived at the climax of this install: Introducing the new saddlebags to their new home-on-wheels. After obtaining the correct side saddlebag, I slid into the bag support. The instructions then call for threading the locknuts onto the screws from inside the saddlebag and tightening the nuts to 27 lb-ft
We have arrived at the climax of this install: Introducing the new saddlebags to their new
First, a thread protector (arrow) was installed onto the threaded end of each saddlebag mounting bolt's threads to prevent raking the skin off one's hand when reaching into the bag.
First, a thread protector (arrow) was installed onto the threaded end of each saddlebag mo

Next, I gently pushed a plug (arrow) into each of the two remaining holes on the fender support where the turn signal once mounted.
Next, I gently pushed a plug (arrow) into each of the two remaining holes on the fender su
At last, the three screws were fully tightened under the fender holding the license plate bracket turn signal bar. As you tighten the bolts, check that the turn signal bar and plate bracket are square to the fender.
At last, the three screws were fully tightened under the fender holding the license plate
After mounting the license plate back onto the new bracket, I mounted the reflector using the most difficult procedure of this install: removing the adhesive backing and sticking it on straight.
After mounting the license plate back onto the new bracket, I mounted the reflector using

After tightening the turn signals onto the bar, I gently pushed the lens back onto each of the turn signals and properly adjusted the housings. This photo shows the saddlebags completely installed. Note: I tested all lights and switches and everything worked just fine. (Not like you had any doubts.) After installing the seat, I also checked the tire pressure-a good idea in general, and also because of the additional saddlebag weight.
After tightening the turn signals onto the bar, I gently pushed the lens back onto each of
It was even more difficult when I stuck the reflectors on the saddlebags. You see folks, I'm picky, but in a good way. I measured the distance of one reflector from the bottom and sides of the saddlebag, so the other reflector matched in distance on the opposite bag.
It was even more difficult when I stuck the reflectors on the saddlebags. You see folks, I
As mentioned in the beginning of the story, here is a closer look inside the saddlebags. You see folks, nothing out of the ordinary. Most notably, however, is the impact, the amount of fun, and the wealth of knowledge that I gained from this installation. Stay tuned to upcoming issues to find out what kind of fun (or trouble) we have next.
As mentioned in the beginning of the story, here is a closer look inside the saddlebags. Y