With a history of proven performance firmly behind S&S Cycle, it's no wonder so many V-twins out there are equipped with S&S carburetors to ensure the motor is fed the proper air/fuel mixture for optimum performance. As with everything else on a bike, periodic maintenance is required to keep its carb in top condition. While you may observe a clean and shiny carburetor on the outside, there's a really good chance things are not so rosy looking on the inside. Sooner or later, it comes time remove the carb, disassemble it, and clean, inspect, and replace parts due to the accumulation of small particles of sediment resulting from contact with gasoline over time. These particles have a knack of getting themselves into passages and orifices designed to meter air and fuel precisely. Once in there, these particles can cause poor motor performance. In addition, friction causes wear on numerous internal surfaces. Left unchecked, the combination of wear and contamination can spell bad news. But, there is a solution. Follow along as we take you through the steps involved in rebuilding a Super G (as well as a Super E) with the parts included in S&S' Master Rebuild Kit. This service is not that difficult and should take someone with even modest mechanical skills around two to three hours. Although not shown in the photos, a good carb cleaner should be used each step of the way to be sure all the parts are clean prior to assembly. With the fuel line disconnected, and the carb drained and removed from the intake manifold, we began by inspecting the aluminum plugs pressed into the body of the carb. They needed to be tight and show no signs of leakage. If leakage was evident, S&S could supply replacement plugs.With the fuel line disconnected, and the carb drained and removed from the intake manifold After removing the idle mixture screw (we counted how many turns it took to back it out and recorded that number for later use), it was time to inspect the fitment between the throttle plate and the carburetor's throat. If we saw light between the two when the plate was in the closed position, then we'd suspect the plate may be worn and needed replacement. This was also a good time to check for wear on the throttle shaft.After removing the idle mixture screw (we counted how many turns it took to back it out an After cleaning off the tip of the idle mixture screw, we took a Sharpie and coated the tapered portion of it with ink. It was then reinserted until it bottomed out. We then removed it again and inspected it to see if there were any signs of any uneven wear. If there were, we would have had to replace it with the new piece included in the kit.After cleaning off the tip of the idle mixture screw, we took a Sharpie and coated the tap We pulled the enrichment plunger from the body by removing the plunger nut and spring. We then closely inspected the metal tip of the stock plunger and used a flashlight to get a good look at the mating seating surface to be sure it too was in good shape.We pulled the enrichment plunger from the body by removing the plunger nut and spring. We It was then time to remove the screws that secured the bowl assembly to the carb body. We refrained from removing the pump cap assembly at this point to avoid losing the ball checks and springs. It was then time to remove the screws that secured the bowl assembly to the carb body. We Before any damage was done to the float, the float pin screw was removed to gain access to, and remove, the float pin, needle, and float.Before any damage was done to the float, the float pin screw was removed to gain access to Since the float pin was beginning to wear, we replaced it with a new one. Next, we removed the existing seat from the bottom of the bowl and replaced it with the new one in the kit.Next, we removed the existing seat from the bottom of the bowl and replaced it with the ne Pressed into the bottom of the bowl is the ejector nozzle. Since it is pressed in, we did not try to remove it from the bowl. We inspected it to be sure there were no kinks in it and then replaced the ejector nozzle O-ring.Pressed into the bottom of the bowl is the ejector nozzle. Since it is pressed in, we did We inspected the float closely for signs of holes or leakage, then we replaced the old needle with the new one, replaced the assembly back into the bowl, and checked to ensure that the parts moved freely. At this point, we momentarily put the bowl gasket in place to check how close the edge of the float was to it. Because the two were within 1/32 inch, all was fine.We inspected the float closely for signs of holes or leakage, then we replaced the old nee We flipped the bowl over and removed the screws that secured the pump cap in place. With the cap out of the way, we carefully removed the balls and O-rings from the aluminum casting.We flipped the bowl over and removed the screws that secured the pump cap in place. With t Contained in the rebuild kit is a new diaphragm, which, along with the ball checks, ball check seals, and spring, was replaced.Contained in the rebuild kit is a new diaphragm, which, along with the ball checks, ball c Before we could reassemble the carburetor, the pump shaft and boot were replaced. We were in the home stretch. A new bowl gasket was put in place before the two halves were rejoined and secured with the four screws. We were in the home stretch. A new bowl gasket was put in place before the two halves wer Installation of the cables was much easier since they were put in place before the carb was bolted to the intake manifold. Installation of the cables was much easier since they were put in place before the carb w With the carb in the proper position, the backing plate and breather assembly got bolted back together with the aid of some blue Loctite. Having experienced screws loosening up in this area in the past, we decided some safety wire was in order to keep them from the potential problems associated with getting sucked into the intake and through the engine.With the carb in the proper position, the backing plate and breather assembly got bolted b Since we counted the number of turns needed to remove the idle mixture screw earlier, all we had to do now was put it back to the same position to get us into the ballpark. We then checked the cables as the bike warmed up and made the final mixture adjustment before blasting down the road to check things out.Since we counted the number of turns needed to remove the idle mixture screw earlier, all Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
