Baker Drivetrain F6R - Baggers Magazine
01. Billet trap door and side covers are available in a show-polished finish or chrome plated and for cable (left, top) or hydraulic clutch. Major components included with the F6R kit is a shift fork, split idler gear, countershaft reverse speed gear, bearing door, reverse pinion gear, countershaft, shift drum, and reverse safety solenoid. Not shown here: gaskets, bearings, related hardware, and special assembly socket.
02. I removed the main fuse (arrow) and then the battery ground cable as a safety measure.
03. I drained the fluid and removed the outer primary cover.
04. When removing the engine sprocket, chain, and clutch use a locking bar between the gear surfaces. Do not use anything to jam between the gear and chain. The complete clutch basket comes off without taking it apart.
05. Empty inner primary.
06. When removing the inner primary be sure to cover the splines on the transmission main shaft to avoid damaging the seal.
07. Inner primary removed.
08. Remove the bearing race from the mainshaft with the proper tool as you cannnot remove the gearset out of the case with out doing so.
09. I drained the transmission while I removed the dipstick…
10. …and top cover. Pull the shifter pawl off the drum and place it on the top-cover mounting surface.
11. Remove the transmission side cover and detach the clutch cable.
12. With the motorcycle in gear and the rear brake applied, loosen both nuts from the countershaft and mainshaft. Do not use an impact gun. I used a �-inch drive breaker bar and a piece of pipe. Unbolt the transmission door from the case…
13. …and pull the gearset. I used a rubber mallet to lightly tap on the mainshaft from the primary side to free it from the dowels. You do not need to remove the drive pulley or Sixth gear.
14. With the gearset sitting on the workbench, follow the instructions in the Factory Service Manual to remove the gears, washers, lock rings, and securing segments. Pay attention to how everything comes apart as some parts are directional. Lay them in the order they come apart and even go so far as to use a zip-tie to keep them together.
15. Using a hydraulic press, remove both shafts from the door.
16. Using the Split Bearing Press Tool…
17. …press the Fifth gear off the countershaft and then…
18. …onto the new BAKER countershaft. Make sure everything is lined up correctly. Reassemble the gears on the countershaft; be sure they are well oiled and in the proper direction. Take care that the locking segments are fully in position and press the shaft into the new cover being sure to only press on the inner race of the bearing. Then install the mainshaft.
19. To line up the shafts with the main drive gear and countershaft bearing, install the door into the transmission case with the gasket in place using the 5/16 socket head cap screws. With the transmission in gear, and making sure the countershaft bearing retainer plate is removed, tighten the supplied nut to 45-55 lb-ft using red thread locker. Repeat the procedure on the mainshaft. Install the countershaft retaining plate and torque the �-20x5/8 button head screws to 110 lb-in using red thread locker.
20. Remove the gearset and put it back on the bench to install the shift system, including the detent lever and shifting drum. Using the special socket provided, torque the drum nut to 25 lb-ft using red thread locker followed by the shifting forks and rods.
21. You are now ready to install the gearset with the gasket in place for the final time. Use the BAKER bolt tightening sequence to torque the bolts to 220 lb-in using blue thread locker. With the bearing door in place, put the shifter pawl on the shifter drum to check that the transmission goes into all the gears. Raise the rear wheel and spin the rear wheel as you go through the shift pattern. You will have the normal six-speed shift pattern plus one more down from First. It will appear as neutral at this time because the reverse gears are not installed yet. If everything is working correctly you can reinstall the top cover.
22. Install the parts for the reverse to the transmission door being sure to lubricate all parts with transmission fluid and follow torque specifications.
23. After screwing the clutch cable into the new cover using a new O-ring, make sure the clutch actuator rod, thrust washer on the idler gear, and gasket are in place before installing the cover. Make sure the solenoid plunger rod (arrow) is pulled out of the way while doing this. Install the �-20 fasteners supplied with the kit and using blue thread locker tighten to 110 lb-in.
24. Put the washer and spring on the reverse plunger and install plunger into solenoid tightening it by hand until the O-ring is fully compressed. Do not over-tighten or use pliers as you will not be able to remove it in the future without damaging it.
25. Next I installed the race on the mainshaft using Jims tool 2140.
26. I then put Jims tool 2256-2 over the splines on the mainshaft to protect the inner primary seal. I also used a new engine-to-primary gasket. I installed the starter and then the engine sprocket, primary chain, and clutch basket as an assembly, along with all other primary components and...
27. ...finally the primary cover. I added 45 ounces of Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase Oil. That is slightly more than used when just changing oil as not all of it drains out when just removing the drain plug.
28. I raised the gas tank and routed the solenoid wire along the wiring harness and then removed the outer fairing and installed the reverse toggle switch to the inner fairing on the right side of the motorcycle.
29. The BAKER reverse cover is wider than stock and I was not able to reinstall the original exhaust system. This gave me the opportunity to use a D&D; Performance 2-into-1 Fat Cat system.
30. The Electra Glide with the BAKER F6R installed and the new D&D; exhaust waiting for the open road.
After having a couple of incidents where I had to get off my ’09 Harley FLHTC and push it backwards to get out of soft ground situations, I started thinking of a installing a reverse gear into my stock Harley Cruise Drive six-speed transmission case. Usually reverse is used on three-wheelers and sidecar rigs, but are becoming popular on two-wheelers as well, especially the heavier, Touring models.
Since I consider BAKER Drivetrain to be THE motorcycle transmission people, I called to see what they had for a late-model six-speed. It is designed to work with the stock foot shifter so no having to reach around the hot exhaust for a lever. Another feature I liked was it is impossible to get the bike locked in First gear and Reverse, something I’d heard about with other reverse systems. A spring-loaded toggle switch engages a solenoid as you push down on the shifter. After you back up, you simply stop the motorcycle, pull in the clutch, and shift into First gear.
The kit comes with detailed instructions but an H-D Factory Service Manual is also needed as there is reference information in it that is needed. Even though I have worked on a lot of Harley transmissions, I made sure I read the BAKER instructions all the way through before I started the job.
Basic handtools, sockets, Allen wrenches, and snap ring pliers will be used as well as drivetrain tools such as 11⁄6, 13⁄16, and 13⁄8 six-point ½-inch drive sockets, primary inner race service kit, split bearing puller, and a torque wrench. You will also need access to a 20-ton hydraulic press, red and blue thread locker, anti-seize, and replacement fluids.
I went through the box that the kit came in just to be sure everything was included and was immediately impressed with the quality. I have dealt with BAKER enough to expect this but I have to mention it.
I will skip over procedures such as removing the saddlebags, side covers, seat, and stock exhaust.
I made sure all fluids were topped off and adjusted the clutch cable and test rode the motorcycle to make sure it went into all six gears. To activate Reverse, I came to a complete stop with the clutch pulled in and still in First gear. I held the reverse toggle switch up while I pushed down on the gearshift lever. As I let out on the clutch and gave it a little throttle, the motorcycle backed up. I realized that I was going to have to be careful doing this as I did not want to back up too quickly.
When I was ready to go forward again, all I did was stop and shift up into First gear. Just to make sure that I was in First and still not in Reverse, I tried pushing down on the lever slightly and it would not go past the stock stop, showing me the safety lever was doing its job of not letting me accidently shift into Reverse. B
**D&D Exhaust ** danddexhaust.com
**JIMS Performance **